![]() 03/18/2019 at 22:18 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
The trick was jamming a screwdriver into the holes and forcing them to align. Somehow this is designed to be installed, in a factory, in a quick amount of time, but the engine has to be precisely square on the mounts or they fuck up. Now I have to re-tighten the frame mount bolts, get new bolts to replace the ones inline tube sent (they arent the right length), and install the headers from the bottom as I ran out of time to do it “properly”
Left:
install starter, install flex plate, new engine dipstick, install vacuum hoses, electronics, alternator and power steering, front and rear main seal on transmission, transmission dipstick, install transmission with shift linkage, driveshaft (considering a new u-joint due to low cost), fix shifter ratchet, fix body mount, fluids ect, install front bumper, hood, and misc hardware.
final checklist, new tires, inspection. I’m also skipping things for brevity.
R
ust buckets are great guys. Guys?
![]() 03/18/2019 at 22:47 |
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Sounds like what I had to deal with, changing the motor mounts on my truck ’s SBC last year. I had taken the old ones out and put the new ones in position, but the engine kept hanging up on one side or the other, and would not play nicely unless it was lined up perfectly centered between the mounts. And even then, I had to use a screwdriver on one side and a ladyslipper on the other to line it up. On top of that, I think I had to loosen the mount-to-frame fasteners in order to make it work... I don’t know what access is like on yours, but my only access was a small window down by the lower control arm mounts to reach up into the frame . It sucked.
Worth it, though.
![]() 03/18/2019 at 22:51 |
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A
ccess was OK, but I’m worried I’m going to have to pick the engine back up in order to put the headers on. R
an out of daylight.
![]() 03/18/2019 at 23:06 |
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Looks good! I can see why you’re concerned about the headers. Not a lot of room left with the Pontiac exhaust ports, is there?
![]() 03/18/2019 at 23:14 |
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There’s no body on them when they’re rolling through the assembly line. This means there’s more room for machines that align stuff.
![]() 03/18/2019 at 23:17 |
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Something, something replacement displacement. Everytime people ask, they always think the 403 is a big block and I stopped correcting them.
The headers have a really tight initial bend to them, so I am confident I might be able to get away with it.
![]() 03/18/2019 at 23:21 |
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Ah, yes. I forgot. Oldsmobile exhaust ports. Even big block Chevies give you more room for headers. Fingers crossed!
![]() 03/18/2019 at 23:42 |
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For reference in case there’s a next time: You are
a dozen
-ish
bolts and an electrical plug away
from having the whole front clip off the car. Not having any of that makes this sort of thing way easier. It can come off as an assembly with two people.
![]() 03/18/2019 at 23:52 |
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I am a dozen completely rusted and seized
bolts away from taking the front clip off the car. Otherwise, you are correct. Whenever the body goes off to be restored I will be doing just that.
![]() 03/19/2019 at 08:48 |
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In the future just take the entire doghouse off as a unit, it’s so much easier!
![]() 03/19/2019 at 12:00 |
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Ill be doing that whenever the body goes off for restoration.
![]() 03/19/2019 at 12:43 |
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Fair enough!